As the 2008 Olympic Games fade into history, Beijing, the capital city of the People’s Republic of China, is still seeking its post-Olympic identity. The extensive makeover of recent years has yielded an impressive portfolio of new hotels, shopping centres and office towers, but China’s political centre is still firmly retained in a strict grip of communist social order. The result is a monolithic showcase city that can seem both remote and inaccessible.

Mao Zedong and Beijing’s history
Beijing became China’s capital in 1421 and remained so until the imperial regime collapsed in 1911. From 1911 to 1949, Beijing suffered, as did the rest of China, from destructive factionalism. The Japanese invasion in 1931 was followed by civil war. In 1949, Mao Zedong’s communists prevailed and the People’s Republic of China was founded with Beijing as the capital.

Mao’s rule is synonymous with the Cultural Revolution – a frenzied attack on liberal, historical and social thought. Following Mao’s death in 1976, Deng Xiaoping gradually opened up China to the world from his Beijing base. 

Old and new
Today’s soaring modern architecture and upgraded infrastructure are juxtaposed with grandiose socialist municipal buildings, broad boulevards and ring roads. Beyond the modernity, Beijing is blessed with myriad historic tourism attractions, including the fast-disappearing hutong lanes. It also serves as a base to visit the Great Wall of China (see Excursions).

When to go
Beijing is at its best in late spring and autumn when crisp, sunny days are accompanied by tree leaves turning red and gold. The searing heat of summer and the biting winds in winter can be extreme.

Surrounded by hills and tea plantations and sat beside the mystical Xi Hu (West Lake), Hangzhou is one of China's most cherished cities. A serene retreat for Emperors and Communist apparatchiks alike, West Lake has inspired generations of writers, painters and poets and even yielded the city Chinese eulogy: ‘In heaven there is paradise, on earth there is Suzhou and Hangzhou.'

Situated 150km (93 miles) south of Shanghai at the southern end of the ancient Beijing-Hangzhou Grand Canal, Hangzhou's natural assets have historically boasted a thriving tourism industry. In 2006, it hosted the six-month-long World Leisure Expo in the outlying district of Xiaoshan.

West Lake is the focal point of the city, flanked by numerous parks, pagodas, temples and bridges – each intrinsically rich in both history and intrigue. Small wooden boats sail across its waters by day and in the evening elderly locals sing folk songs and play traditional instruments in the adjacent parks. The views across the lake at sunset and sunrise are magnificent.

Hangzhou is also a famous tea-growing centre and tours can be made to the nearby Dragon Well, which bestowed the name for the city's most famous export: Longjing tea.

Tourism aside, Hangzhou is a rapidly growing, and increasingly affluent, commercial city. Its strong economic growth is underpinned by a large concentration of private enterprises and status as a complementary location to near neighbour Shanghai for foreign direct investment.

In both 2004 and 2005, Hangzhou was rated by Forbes China as the nation's best city to do business. Tapping into this rising urban affluence are foreign retailers such as Dolce & Gabbana, Armani, Hermes, and Adidas, while McDonald's, Pizza Hut, Starbucks and Haagen Dazs all occupy prime locations.

Hong Kong can be one of the most engaging and unexpectedly beautiful urban spectacles on earth.

Situated at the mouth of the Pearl River Delta on the southwestern coast of China, Hong Kong is a destination imbued with a remarkable mix of Eastern and Western influences. Since the handover from British colonial to Chinese sovereignty in 1997, it has become far more Chinese than ever before, but for tourists the joy of visiting lies in being wedged between two diverse cultures simultaneously.

Hong Kong Island with its financial hub is the energetic heartbeat of the region, where cloud-tickling skyscrapers, neon light night spectacular, fine dining, high-end shopping and world-class hotels are all part of the landscape.

Get down to street level however and the laneways, wet markets and traditional Chinese haunts are a reminder that beyond the city lies a working class populace still making ends meet the old way – and often the hard way.

Kyoto was the political capital of Japan for more than 1,000 years – from 794 until 1868, when the government was transferred to Edo (Tokyo). It remains the cultural heart of the Japanese nation, and with more than 2,000 temples and shrines, it is a place of pilgrimage as well as a veritable open-air museum. No fewer than 17 major sites in and around the city have gained UNESCO World Heritage status.

It is in Kyoto, more than anywhere else in Japan, that the old ways of the country's old imperial civilisation are kept alive, both in the arts and in real life. From geisha to kabuki actors, the past is still present in the old capital, and this is also reflected in the physical environment; the city has managed to retain (not least since Kyoto was spared bombardment at the end of WWII) the ambience of old at least in some areas, where temples, shrines, teahouses and old wooden machiya townhouses give the visitor a vivid impression of what traditional Japan must have been like.

While it is true that modernisation has not always been gentle to old Kyoto, as concrete, steel and neon have become dominant features in large parts of the cityscape, on the whole Japan's old capital remains an extremely attractive place. As a meeting place between old and new and also between Japanese and international cultural impulses, Kyoto is a vibrant city with a rich urban culture and an artistic and cultural scene second to none in Japan.

Whether you prefer traditional kabuki theatre or modern avant-garde performance art, you can find it in Kyoto. Moreover, it is a great city for festivals, with a busy all-year programme culminating in the marvellous Gion Matsuri and the beautiful Yamaboko Junko float parade in July.

And if the cultural riches and street-life buzz can be overwhelming, there is always plenty of nature offering relief nearby, whether in the city's gardens and parks or in the lovely mountains and hills surrounding the city.

Few tourism destinations are transforming at the same speed as Macau. A once sleepy, sleazy and largely ignored Portuguese colony, it was handed back to China in 1999 to be ruled as a Special Administrative Region (like Hong Kong) – and subsequently moved into a high developmental gear.

The post-handover catalyst was the ending of local tycoon Stanley's Ho's 40-year monopoly on Macau's pivotal casino industry. New concessions were awarded to Las Vegas kingpins Steve Wynn and Sheldon Adelson, injecting new dynamism into Macau's tourism profile. Its 25 casinos are now operated by four companies; Stanley Ho's Sociedade de Jogos de Macau (18), Galaxy (5) and Wynn and Venetian (one each). Two other operators, MGM Grand and Melco PBL, are building new casinos.

The speed of development is breathtaking. In 2006, Macau's neon-fuelled, casino-driven economy overtook Hong Kong in GDP growth for the first time, and attracted almost 22 million tourists (12 million of whom came from mainland China). Gross 2006 gaming receipts topped US$6.9 billion, outpacing even Las Vegas.

But there's more to Macau than opulent gambling palaces. Its historic centre became China's 31st UNESCO World Cultural Heritage site in 2005. The sloping cobbled streets are redolent of Porto, and street signs are inked onto white tiled azulejos. Even Macau's currency, the pataca, more closely resembles the old escudo than the yuan. In addition, there are hill-top forts, cathedral ruins, Buddhist temples, a grand neo-classical post office and several atmospheric Portuguese cafes and Cantonese restaurants.

New Macau is still under construction, and land reclamation has doubled its territory, conjoining it with the islands of Coloane and Taipa. The resulting Cotai Strip will be a new hotel, entertainment and gaming centre from 2009, with up to 60,000 hotel rooms by names such as Hard Rock, Grand Hyatt, St Regis, Four Seasons, Shangri-La and Raffles. Richard Branson is planning to make his first foray into the casino market here. As Steve Wynn, President and CEO of Wynn Resorts recently remarked, ‘Macau is the safest bet on earth.'

Nagoya's history goes back 400 years. The city was created in the aftermath of the Battle of Sekigahara. Uniting Japan through his victory at the battle, Tokugawa Ieyasu commenced construction of Nagoya Castle in 1610, and in the years that followed the residents of the former town of Kiyosu moved to the area surrounding the new castle.

Under the leading family of the three Tokugawa clans, Nagoya developed as a centre for culture, manufacture and trade.

With 2.2 million inhabitants, Nagoya is today the fourth-largest city in Japan. One of the country's major transport hubs, situated halfway between east and west along the main transport lines running from Tokyo via Kyoto and Osaka to Hiroshima and further west, Nagoya also has Japan's leading port for international trade as well as its own state-of-the-art airport, half-an-hour from the city centre.

For centuries a centre for porcelain, ceramics and lacquer-ware production, in modern times Nagoya has been among Japan's most important manufacturing and industrial cities. Toyota Motor Corporation, one of the world's leading car makers, was established in Nagoya, and it still runs a technology and industry museum in the city, while the manufacturing of cars has moved out to Toyota City to the east of Nagoya.

Nagoya is not all about industry, transport and trade, however. It has a thriving cultural scene and a vibrant nightlife, and there is a wealth of museums in the city, including some excellent art museums.

In addition, it also has something to offer nature lovers, in particular the Fujimae-higata wetland area near the port, which is Japan's largest stopover site for migratory birds and hence a great site for bird spotting. There are also plenty of green spaces in Nagoya, and the city is working to become even greener.

While Japan's environmental record is poor in many places, Nagoya has initiated a number of comprehensive green projects with the stated ambition of becoming Japan's eco-capital of the future.

Osaka is Japan's third largest city, and it is the heart of the country's largest metropolitan region, which consists of Osaka, Kobe and Kyoto and has a population of around 20 million people.

Osaka, then known as Naniwa, was twice the imperial capital of Japan, in the seventh and eighth centuries, but only for short periods, and the city has throughout its history been more famous for its economic than its political power.

Osaka was historically Japan's commercial capital, and it is still a powerful business centre with a large working population. In fact, the city's population increases with more than a million, from 2.6 to 3.7 million during the day thanks to the vast number of commuters working in the city.

Located at the mouth of the Yodo River on Osaka Bay, Osaka has excellent sea, air and land communications and remains the economic powerhouse of the Kansai region.

While Osaka's history goes back well over 1,000 years, the city is today better known for its future-oriented cityscape, architecture and industry than for its past. A distinctly modern city with a skyscraper-studded skyline and vast underground shopping complexes, Osaka is busy, bustling, commercial, creative, energetic, versatile and friendly.

The city has two main centres, Kita to the north, which is the main business and retail district, and Minima to the south, which includes the main shopping, food and entertainment areas.

Osaka is just as busy after dark as during the daytime. The city's nightlife is legendary, with thousands of bars, restaurants and amusement venues. The most famous of the night spots is the Dotonbori area, a hectic neon jungle along the Dotonbori canal lined with food, drink and entertainment establishments and a giant moving crab billboard at its heart – a symbol of both the area and the city.

Osaka is regarded as the country's gourmet food capital, the culinary heart (or indeed belly) of Japan. It is the place to go whether you want top-notch kaiseki food or more hearty and generous fare like okonomiyaki, the local speciality.

Another local favourite is takoyaki, flavoursome dumplings made of batter and diced octopus. The motto that more than any other sums up Osaka and the mentality of its people is kuidaore, which quite simply means ‘Eat until you drop'.

The seventh largest city in the world, the dynamic capital of South Korea is a bewitching mix of ancient and modern.

A cutting-edge cityscape of glass, steel and concrete skyscrapers tower over traditional wooden houses with tiled roofs and a maze of cobbled alleys in distinct, village-like districts. High-tech electronic equipment, neon signs clamouring for attention and glittering designer stores lie around the corner from night markets, ancient palaces and temples.

A tributary of the Han River winds through it all, bisecting the city, cooling the hot summers and offering moments of calm away from the crowds.

Founded 600 years ago by the Joseon dynasty, Seoul has a truly Asian heart (despite American influence and modernisation), which can be seen clearly in its distinctive, aromatic and healthy food, much of it vegetarian. People still visit traditional tea houses, the five elegant palaces host cultural performances, and the extensive museums and hugely successful contemporary Korean cinema with historic, cultural themes keep the ancient past alive.

Although 11 million people live in this city, it's a safe and friendly place. Its people are one of its best assets; they may be somewhat shy, but Seoulites are kind, helpful and polite.

Although influenced by nearby Japan (Seoul is often dubbed the ‘new Tokyo'), Korea has a unique culture. Korea Sparkling, its new global tourism brand, hints at the nation's vibrancy, concentrated in its buzzing capital, one of the economic powerhouses of Asia.

And, underneath the pulsing sociability and industriousness that infuse this bustling city, is a strong Buddhist tradition that gives Seoul its soul.

Formerly called ‘Formosa’ (Portuguese for ‘beautiful’), Taiwan is relatively small, although its population numbers almost 23 million, making it the second most densely populated country in the world after Bangladesh.

A gateway to the massive Chinese market, Taiwan has a strong relationship with the West. The political issue of its relationship with China has eased somewhat and direct flights to the mainland have been introduced. Taiwan has plenty to offer, from truly unique scenery to exciting sporting activities and colourful festivals, not to mention the most varied Chinese food on earth.

Taipei, the capital city, has a long established reputation as a gourmet’s paradise, boasting cuisine from every region of China.

It is also home to new boutique hotels and trendy bars that have sprung up in a flurry of construction culminating in the opening of the ‘world’s tallest building’, Taipei 101 (now overtaken by Burj Dubai). The constructing of parks and much-needed infrastructure in also underway. Perhaps a result of this growth, Taipei’s cultural scene has blossomed giving local sculpture, art and architecture a distinctly Taiwanese edge.

Taipei has warm weather year round, with high humidity and the occasional typhoon.

Effortlessly blending the old and the new, Tokyo is a city that defies definition. Cutting edge technology glitters beside ancient temples, flashing neon lights bathe kimono-clad women, and shining skyscrapers tower above stunning Shinto shrines. Home to over 12 million people (and more than 35 million people if you include the entire metropolis), Tokyo is a city with a history and a heart that captivates every visitor.

The towering business districts swarm with soberly dressed corporate warriors and the demure young secretaries known as ‘office ladies’. The architectural anarchy and sheer crush of humanity assaults the senses. Amid the frenzy of consumerism, brash electronics outlets are crammed next to refined upscale boutiques and hordes of giggling schoolgirls swoon over pop idols and the latest fashions in glitzy emporiums.

History
In 1590, the city was founded as Edo, the capital of the shoguns, the succession of hereditary absolute rulers of Japan and commander of the Japanese army. Following the fall of the shoguns in 1867, the city was renamed Tokyo, the Eastern Capital, heralding its rebirth as a dynamic modern city and the showpiece of a rapidly modernizing country. Despite the catastrophic 1923 earthquake, which killed 140,000 and left a further 1.9 million people homeless, and near obliteration during WWII, Tokyo rose from the ashes.

When to go
Visiting the city is a pleasure at any time, except perhaps the sweltering heat of summer (July and August). While winter in the city is cold and crisp, spring (March to May) is the highlight of the year for many, with the arrival of delicate cherry blossoms inspiring sake-soaked picnics in the city’s parks and avenues. Autumn (September to November) sees the oppressive summer heat give way to balmy days and golden leaves.

But avoid Golden Week (late Apr-May) and New Year (late Dec-early Jan), the two most important festivals in the Shinto calendar, because the city closes down. With festivals celebrated almost every week, however, there will always be something of the old Japan to experience, whatever time of year you visit.